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Research Article

A New Trend of Korean Modern Embroidery, the Inflow and Development of Foreign Embroidery

양수정

이화여자대학교

Published: March 2025 · No. 325 · pp. 61-107

DOI: https://doi.org/10.31065/kjah.325.202503.003

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Abstract

Despite the transformation and development of embroidery in the Korean Peninsula during the modern era, largely influenced by the introduction of foreign embroidery styles from the late 19th century, research has predominantly focused on Japanese embroidery. However, various historical records and surviving artifacts suggest that multiple foreign embroidery traditions were introduced during this period, necessitating a reconsideration of the existing perspective. Notably, in 1888, French nuns from the Congregation of the Sisters of St. Paul of Chartres, which had its headquarters in France, arrived in Chosŏn and began teaching F r e n c h e m b r o i d e r y t o l o c a l K o r e a n w o m e n w h o a s p i r e d t o b e c o m e n u n s . T h i s h i s t o r i c a l d e v e l o p m e n t indicates that French embroidery influenced Korean women’s embroidery activities much earlier than the full-fledged influence of Japanese embroidery after 1910. This study examines the transformation of embroidery in the modern history of the Korean Peninsula, particularly through the Catholic missionary efforts that introduced French embroidery techniques for the production of liturgical vestments (Casula). It analyzes how French embroidery, introduced to Korea in the late 19th century, was applied in the making of Catholic vestments, the specific techniques used, and how punch needle embroidery, which was incorporated into vestments, was related to the rise of decorative embroidery in the 1930s. Furthermore, it explores how French embroidery was utilized and stylistically integrated into vestments made in Korea. By 1911, Korean nuns trained in embroidery at convents had begun producing elaborately decorated vestments.
Keywords: 근대 자수(Modern embroidery)프랑스 자수(French embroidery)제의(Casula)샬트르 성바오로 수녀회(Sisters of St. Paul de Chartres)가톨릭(Catholic)20세기(20th century)수녀(nun)조선(Chosŏn)문화자수(Munhwa embroidery)펀치니들 자수(Punch needle embroidery)아플리케(Appliqué)